How to Get Pokémon Cards Graded
A complete, no-hype walkthrough — from deciding which cards to submit, through prep and shipping, to verifying the slab when it comes back.
The short answer: To get Pokémon cards graded, choose a grading company (PSA, CGC, BGS, or SGC), create an account and pick a service tier, sleeve each card in a penny sleeve and semi-rigid holder, fill out the online submission form, and ship the cards with tracking and insurance. Grading takes anywhere from days to over a month depending on the tier you pay for.
First: should you grade this card at all?
Grading only makes sense when a strong grade adds more value than it costs. Before you do anything else, sanity-check the card against three questions — if the answer to all three is yes, read on; if not, the card is probably better kept raw.
- Is the card desirable — a key, a chase card, or vintage with real demand?
- Is it in near-mint or better condition, with clean corners and surface?
- Does the graded version sell for clearly more than the raw card plus the grading cost?
We break the math down in Is grading worth it?
The Grading Process, Step by Step
- 1
Decide which cards are worth grading
Grading costs money per card, so only submit cards where a high grade adds more value than the fee. Prioritise key cards (vintage holos, 1st Editions, popular chase cards) in strong condition. A near-mint Charizard is worth grading; a played common is not.
- 2
Pick a grading company
The main graders are PSA, CGC, BGS, and SGC. PSA has the broadest market recognition for Pokémon and usually the strongest resale premium. CGC is the value pick with faster turnaround. BGS offers sub-grades favored for modern cards. Pick one before you prep.
- 3
Create an account and choose a service tier
Register on the grader's website and select a service level based on each card's declared value. Cheaper "bulk" or "economy" tiers cap the maximum card value and have longer turnaround; faster tiers cost more and allow higher-value cards.
- 4
Protect each card
Put every card in a penny sleeve, then a semi-rigid holder (such as a Card Saver I) rather than a tight, hard-snap case that can damage edges. Never tape anything to the card or its sleeve, and never clean or alter the card.
- 5
Fill out the submission form
List every card with its set, number, and declared value through the grader's online submission system. The declared value determines your tier eligibility and the insurance coverage on the return shipment.
- 6
Package and ship with tracking and insurance
Sandwich the sleeved cards between rigid cardboard inside a sturdy box, include the printed submission form, and ship with tracking and insurance to the grader's intake address. Keep your tracking number and submission ID.
What Graders Actually Score
Every major grader evaluates the same four physical attributes, then combines them into one number. Knowing them helps you pre-screen your own cards before paying to submit.
Centering
How evenly the border frames the art, front and back. PSA wants roughly 55/45 or better on the front for a 10. Off-centering is the #1 reason Pokémon holos miss the top grade.
Corners
Sharpness with no rounding, dings, or fraying. Even sleeve-stored cards from the 90s usually show corner wear under magnification.
Edges
Clean, no whitening or chipping. Black-bordered cards (1st Edition Base Set) reveal edge wear instantly — even careful handling can cost the 10.
Surface
No print lines, holo scratches, scuffs, or fingerprints. Holo Charizards are especially prone to subtle foil scratches that drop a 10 to a 9.
The Main Graders at a Glance
| Grader | Scale | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| PSA | 1–10 (no half grades) | Resale & recognition |
| CGC | 1–10 (half grades) | Value & speed |
| BGS | 1–10 + 4 sub-grades | Modern cards |
| SGC | 1–10 (half grades) | Vintage & turnaround |
Full breakdown in PSA vs CGC vs BGS for Pokémon.
Packing & Shipping Checklist
- Penny sleeve, then a semi-rigid holder (Card Saver I) — not a tight toploader.
- Painter's tape on the holder only, never on the card or sleeve.
- Sandwich cards between rigid cardboard or team bags inside a sturdy box.
- Include the printed submission form in the package.
- Ship with tracking and insurance matching your declared value.
- Photograph each card and record cert/submission numbers before sealing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to get Pokémon cards graded?
Turnaround depends on the service tier you pay for. Faster, more expensive tiers can return cards in days to a couple of weeks, while cheaper bulk tiers can take a month or more. Each grader posts current estimated turnaround times per tier on its website.
Is it worth getting Pokémon cards graded?
Grading is usually worth it when a high grade adds more value than the grading fee plus shipping — typically on vintage keys, 1st Edition holos, and popular modern chase cards in near-mint or better condition. For common or played cards, the fee often exceeds the value the grade adds. See our full break-even guide.
Do I need to clean my Pokémon cards before grading?
No. Do not clean or alter a card before grading — wiping a holo can cause scratches, and any detectable alteration can result in a lower grade or a "no grade." Submit cards as-is in protective sleeves.
Which grading company is best for Pokémon cards?
PSA has the widest market recognition and typically the strongest resale premium for Pokémon, which is why most collectors start there. CGC is a strong value alternative with faster turnaround, and BGS sub-grades appeal to some modern-card collectors. See our PSA vs CGC vs BGS comparison for the trade-offs.
Can I get Pokémon cards graded at a local card shop?
Often, yes. Many local card shops accept cards and submit them on your behalf through a dealer or group submission, which can save on shipping and account setup. You pay the shop a handling fee on top of the grading cost.
Keep going
Now price it out, choose a grader, and decide if it pays off.